Welcome to the fourth installment of the 2015 “Besties Guest Bartender Series” a monthly collaboration with Momofuku that brings together two bartenders with a past and puts them behind the bar at Má Pêche for a night.
Besties started out with Momofuku as an excuse for former bartending buddies to work together again, if even for just a night. Since then it has evolved into an event that celebrates quality drinks and friendship. To make it all the better, part of the proceeds go to charity. With the help of a Proustian(ish) questionnaire, before each event we’ll test the bartending pair on their knowledge about each other, while also learning a little something about how they met and the influences they share. Join us for this month’s event on Wednesday, June 24, from 5 p.m. to 10 p.m. (open to the public).
Up this month: Houston’s own Bobby Heugel and Terry Williams.
Bobby Heugel (co-owner, Anvil Bar & Refuge, Pastry War, Hay Merchant and many others) and Terry Williams (general manager, Anvil Bar & Refuge) seem to encapsulate the ideal yin-yang relationship behind the bar.
After a short-lived attempt at becoming an accountant, Williams worked in restaurants for years before switching to bars, Heugel has long been interested in politics and public speaking; the pair’s somewhat opposite personalities and styles of service are represented in their respective approaches to drink-making. “Our strengths play well off each other,” says Williams, who explains their relationship as a “left brain vs. right brain situation.”
The two met three or four years ago when, after frequenting Anvil as a customer, Williams came in for a few rounds of interviews and soon ended up on the other side of the bar. Since then he’s taken over over as general manager, overseeing Anvil’s rigorous 12-step training program. While the two share a number of common obsessions (sherry, agave spirits), it’s in style of service that they diverge. “My style is definitely more confrontational than Terry’s,” says Heugel, who insists that he is more forward when it comes to getting customers to dive into something unfamiliar. Williams is his buffer of sorts, easing people into new spirits or flavors. Where they converge again? “We’re nerds for the details,” says Williams. —Joanna Harkins
BOBBY HEUGEL
What do you want to be when you grow up?
A bartender.
If you could come back as anyone or anything, who or what would it be?
Ernest Hemingway. I question the legitimacy of any bartender who answers otherwise. Arguably the greatest drinker in history, and that’s just scratching the surface.
If you could only have one drink for the rest of your life, what would it be?
A Martini — there’s a reason it is the world’s most famous cocktail.
What is your spirit ingredient?
Mezcal.
What’s on your essential behind-the-bar playlist?
Miles Davis’ Kind of Blue.
Living or dead, who would you most like to see sit down at your bar for a drink?
Amarillo Slim, who won the World Series of Poker twice and used to come into the second bar that I ever bartended at and order a prime rib (which we served on Thursdays), potatoes and a glass of milk. He never talked much and wasn’t exactly known as the best person, but I wish I could ask him the questions about his life that I was too shy to ask at the time.
Who would play you in a movie?
Tina Fey, because then I might be able to take advantage of the circumstances and meet her. I realize this is totally illogical.
What do you crave at the end of a long shift/day?
Sleep.
What’s something you find to be particularly underrated about working as a bartender?
Our job is never boring, ever. I think that’s one of the great things about bartending. You might be performing the same tasks every night, but the people who walk in, the questions they ask, the topics they want to discuss, the days that they’ve had — it changes every single day. If you pay attention, you learn something about people every night.
How do you feel about bartenders gaining more celebrity as of late?
I think it’s a bit of a circle jerk more than anything else. The bar industry is huge, and includes everything from nightclubs to casual dive bars. I think we tend to assume the cocktail community is larger than it is. It’s cool that in any city in the world, we can tell someone to go see a friend, and that the cocktail community has grown to that point. But I think a very small percentage of people would even know who our modern-day “celebrities” are.
Bobby on Terry
What does Terry want to be when he grows up?
A cheerful grandfather with an extensive liquor cabinet.
If Terry could come back as anyone or anything, who or what would it be? Why?
I think Terry would just come back as Terry.
If Terry could only have one drink for the rest of his life, what would it be?
Zucca Amaro.
What is Terry’s spirit ingredient?
Zucca Amaro. If he wrote anything else for the past two questions, he needs to be reminded of his most recent birthdays.
What’s on Terry’s essential behind-the-bar playlist?
Something I wouldn’t let him play in the bar during opening hours.
Living or dead, who would Terry most like to see sit down at the bar for a drink? Why?
Brian Cox — a somewhat obscure actor most people would still probably recognize. He’s from Scotland, and recently he did these YouTube videos on how to pronounce famous scotch brands. Terry loves those videos.
Who would play Terry in a movie?
James Caan.
What does Terry crave at the end of a long shift/day?
Silence. Terry juggles a constant wave of requests and commentary from the Anvil crew. He does it so well, but they can certainly be a bit overwhelming from time to time.
TERRY WILLIAMS
What do you want to be when you grow up?
I’m still holding out hope for a 8-inch growth spurt so I can finally start my NBA career.
If you could come back as anyone or anything, who or what would it be?
See answer above.
If you could only have one drink for the rest of your life, what would it be?
Fino sherry.
What is your spirit ingredient?
Campari.
What’s on your essential behind-the-bar playlist?
“White Night” by The Postelles.
Living or dead, who would you most like to see sit down at your bar for a drink?
My dad. I never got the chance to serve him a drink.
What is your favorite name for a cocktail?
The one that someone else comes up with for me.
Who would play you in a movie?
Zach Galifianakis.
What do you crave at the end of a long shift/day?
Nitro Cuba Libre.
What’s something you never expected to love so much about bartending?
I think the part that often gets forgotten, and it’s not everyone, but just taking care of people. I know that’s why I’ve loved doing this ever since I started when I was 17. I like taking care of people. I like making people happy. I think sometimes when we get so caught up in having this new bottle of whiskey on the back bar or that new cocktail on the menu we forget what it’s really about.
How would you talk about the Houston cocktail scene compared to the New York scene?
Obviously, New York has a more advanced cocktail scene because it’s been going on for much longer there. But at the same time, the Houston scene is getting to explode because it’s much easier to get into the business here. The rent is lower. The cost of living is lower. We’re seeing all of these great bars opening up down here with the opportunity to flourish and compete.
Terry on Bobby
What does Bobby want to be when he grows up?
Politician. “Senator Heugel” has a nice ring to it, doesn’t it?
If Bobby could come back as anyone or anything, who or what would it be?
Mezcalero, so he could do what he loves.
If Bobby could only have one drink for the rest of your life, what would it be?
Mezcal.
What Bobby’s spirit ingredient?
Mellow Corn.
What’s on Bobby’s essential behind-the-bar playlist?
Wu-Tang Clan.
Living or dead, who would Bobby most like to see sit down at the bar for a drink?
Mayor Annise Parker.
Who would play Bobby in a movie?
Robert Downey, Jr.
What does Bobby crave at the end of a long shift/day?
Lone Star and a shot of Weller 12.
Previous “Besties” Columns:
Besties: New York’s Favorite Drink-Slinging Couple
Besties: The OG New York Bartender Edition
Besties: Meet New York City’s Tiki Pirates