Pearl & Ash

Patrick Cappiello’s list at Pearl & Ash has taken all of the depth and classicism you’d expect from a fine dining wine list and then littered it with an exciting, and unexpected, mix of farther-flung heroes of France’s new avant-garde—from Ganevat and Selosse to rising Loire stars like Domaine de Bellivière. Since opening, Pearl & Ash has become the de-facto hangout for the downtown wine crowd, so if you happen to wander in past 11 p.m. you’re bound to find a number of the city’s best sommeliers bellied up to the bar. Also: If you order a bottle of champagne, do not be alarmed when Cappiello mounts the bar and sabers the bottle into the restaurant. This is just par for the course here.