One of New York’s top sommeliers, Patrick Cappiello—and alum of Veritas, Tribeca Grill and GILT—traded in his suit and tie to see what would happen if he brought a well-stocked list of vintage Bordeaux and Burgundy to a casual downtown restaurant, mixed it with quirky wines from France’s lunatic fringe, knocked down prices, threw on a Black Flag T-shirt and started sabering bottles of wine on the bar during service. His modernization of the French tradition of sabering in restaurants, and his wine program at Pearl & Ash, are challenging expectations about where and how we encounter great wine.