Croatian Wine Is Upping Its Game

Where Croatia’s wines were once “oafish and clumsy” Joe Wadsack of Harper’s UK is now discovering intriguing new bottlings of grenache and syrah. Up until recently, the market has been focused largely on indigenous Croatian grape varieties, but growers are beginning to realize the “suitability both in soil type and climate, for other imported varieties” and are increasingly aligning themselves with natural growing practices, as is the case with Frano Milos whose wines Wadsack praises for their disparately low ABV and aging potential. He calls Milos’s 2008 “sublime” and looks forward to its drinkability in 2028. Check back in 15 years. [Harper’s UK]