New York has a way of venerating its most classic institutions, and often by reinventing them for a modern age. First We Feast breaks down the good, the bad and the expensive. On the good list is Carbone, Major Food Group’s homage to Italian-American cuisine, as well as Minetta Tavern, Keith McNally’s ode to the classic steak joint. On the expensive list is John DeLucie’s Crown, a place he created with “comfort food for millionaires.” And on the bad list Feast places DeLucie’s latest, The King Cole Bar and Salon, once famous for its Bloody Mary. Its menu now hosts half a dozen versions of the drink at $25 a pop, and makes the unfortunate mistake of “[forgetting] what made its predecessor great in the first place.” [First We Feast]