The Middle Child (Wine Guy) at El Cellar de Can Roca

The Wall Street Journal profiles the three Roca brothers who make up El Cellar de Can Roca, the restaurant that bumped Noma to second place on San Pellegrino’s list of the world’s 50 best restaurants. The article offers a look at the life of sommelier and middle brother, Josep, who “has broken just about every wine rule there is, and made up a few of his own.” In keeping with the family’s experimental edge, Josep’s moves include mixing two wines together as part of a dessert pairing, and creating a thick yet effervescent sparkling wine to be used as a sauce over oysters.

These days his spare time is spent visiting his Parisian source for rare Chinese tea and writing a book about his theory that “wines resemble the people who make them.” Those looking to get in on Josep’s wacky world can look out for upcoming tour dates as the brothers take their restaurant (based in Girona, Spain) abroad over the next few years. [The Wall Street Journal]