Pastis

(n.) An anise-flavored liqueur developed by Pernod as a replacement for absinthe, which was banned in France in 1919 for its supposed hallucinogenic properties. The formula for pastis borrows many of its predecessor’s flavorings, minus the wormwood. Star anise is the dominant flavoring that adds the anise-factor, but secondary herbal accents will vary from brand to brand. Pastis usually carries a note of licorice, whereas absinthe does not, and it is also bottled with sugar, making it a liqueur.

Usually yellow or brownish in color, the Pernod brand, with its striking green color, is as an outlier. Today, production methods vary: some are made using the traditional methods, with herbal flavors developed during distillation, but cheaper versions tend to add flavor and color to a base spirit.

In France, pastis is considered an aperitif and is commonly served either mixed with chilled water at a ratio of one to five, or neat with chilled water on the side so it can be mixed to the customer’s taste. When water is added, the liqueur will turn cloudy. Ice may be added after the water is mixed in, though it is not necessary. Pastis also makes an appearance in many cocktails, and may be substituted in drinks that call for absinthe. The most-recognizable brands include Ricard and Pernod (preferred in the south of France and Paris and beyond France, respectively), but artisanal brands are making a splash too, as are brands from outside of France. Look for Henri Bardouin, or Charbay out of Napa Valley.