The Grocery

A former vegetarian, chef Kevin Johnson has an easy way with local plants that aren’t necessarily trendy or talked-about: He’s forever chasing flavor, whether it’s found in a fried okra pod anointed with tomato gravy or a wood-roasted peach splashed with sherry vinegar. A similar philosophy prevails behind the bar, where Johnson’s overriding interest in talent has helped create a rare local platform for women bartenders. The cocktail list reflects the restaurant’s rustic charms: Seasonal fruits and pickled vegetables are staples. A strong selection of Alsatian whites complements the roster of wood-roasted seafood.