Jon Bonné is senior contributing editor for PUNCH, wine columnist at The San Francisco Chronicle and author of The New California Wine. He is currently working on his next book, The New French Wine. He lives in New York City.
For a century, the southernmost outpost of Champagne—known as the the Aube—has existed as the back office to Champagne’s northern holy land. Now it’s a promised land for rebels. Jon Bonné on the freedom that’s propelled the region and its wines, and why they may have more in common with Burgundy than Champagne.
Artisanal off-dry, fizzy wines—of which Bugey-Cerdon is the poster child—have made headway amongst some of the wine world’s avant-garde. But will they ever really happen? Jon Bonné on what’s held them back, and why they deserve their moment in the sun.
The Jura has become the darling of the wine world for its outsider status and rustic sous voile wines. But what of the more conventional ouillé style being adopted by some of the region’s most influential producers? Jon Bonné on why they may be its future.
Over the last half decade, rosé has become the official wine of summer. Which begs the question: What happened to all of the summer wines of yore? Jon Bonné on the other wines—from chilled Beaujolais to Amalfi whites to Vino Verde—that we should be coaxing out of the corner right about now.
For years, the balance of power in Champagne has been shifting—from large producers to small growers—but there is a deeper change afoot. Jon Bonné on how a new outlook on farming and terroir is rewriting the region’s future.
In an effort to rub out the complications of a complex wine world, many of America’s tastemakers aimed to simplify it. But like Seahaven, the fictitious town in “The Truman Show,” that narrow world has split at the seams. Jon Bonné on wine’s new mainstream(s).