Café de la Nouvelle Mairie sits, as it has for the past 30 years, on an overlooked square in the hyper-touristic shadow of the Pantheon. It has the distinction of being Paris’s first natural wine bar. Renowned palate Bernard Pontonnier was the first owner; he sold it to Nicolas Carmarans, who, in favor of becoming a winemaker near Aveyron, sold it to the present owners, Benjamin Fourty and Corentin Bucillat. Somewhere in the ceding contract must be a clause forbidding time from passing, because Café de la Nouvelle Mairie still offers the same wholesome pleasures as always: a lovely terrace, simple tradition cuisine and a serious natural wine list that ensures the café retains its primacy among aficionados.
- back vintages
- natural wine
- outdoors / patio
What to drink
Reliably present are the wines of its former owner, Aveyronnais winemaker Nicolas Carmarans. His cuvée “Maximus,” an unsulfured, carbonic-macerated Fer Servadou scans like a wild cousin of good cru Beaujolais.
When you request the wine list, you will often be directed to a list of glass-pour wines on a chalkboard mounted on the wall near the bar. But insist on seeing the paper list: It’s only presented on-demand, and contains some real pearls, benefits of the bar’s seniority in the scene. Marie has marvelous block parties, several times a year. Go, if you happen to be in town.