While Le Pigeon might qualify as a fine dining restaurant, it does the white tablecloth thing the Portland way. In 2006, the restaurant hired Chef Gabriel Rucker, then a 26-year-old cook from Napa, to help revamp the kitchen. In the eight years since he’s racked up two James Beard Awards, published a successful cookbook and maintained Le Pigeon’s relevance in a city whose dining landscape is expanding at a breakneck pace. By his side is partner and wine director Andy Fortgang who left his job as the beverage director at Tom Colicchio’s Craft to join Le Pigeon in 2007 and has since transformed the wine list into one of the best in the city.