The Green Man & French Horn

The Green Man & French Horn celebrates the food and wine of France’s Loire Valley, “from the Ardèche to the coast at Saint Lazare.” The Loire produces some of the best wines in the world and the list here must be one of the finest representations of the region on earth. Chef Ed Wilson’s menu is equally on point; start with oysters served properly and a glass of something mineral or a mound of wonderful rillettes and some gamay. And whatever you do, don’t miss the fillet of wild sea bass served covered in an otherworldy beurre blanc that’s made from nothing more than unsalted butter, Muscadet and a few grey shallots. You’ll want something with a little age for that and the Green Man has the best list of Loire back vintages you are ever likely to see. Finish with the tarte vigneron and a glass of sweet, spritely chenin blanc from Les Vignes Herbel and totter off into the night.