John deBary is the former bar director of the Momofuku restaurants, the author of Drink What You Want, founder of Proteau and co-founder and board president of the Restaurant Workers’ Community Foundation, which is dedicated to improving the lives of hospitality industry professionals through advocacy, grantmaking and impact investing. He lives on the Lower East Side with his husband and cat.

Who Ordered the Blue Drink?
A decade ago, the blue drink was a subversive dig at the prevailing seriousness of cocktail culture. Today it feels right at home.
- story: John deBary
- photo: Lizzie Munro