“Vodka is such a polarizing spirit for bartenders,” says Arvid Brown, co-owner of Room for Improvement in Portland, Maine. “So many turn their noses up at the idea of it as a base spirit, yet so many of us still end up selling a great deal of it.” The past few years have seen a steady growth of appreciation for vodka cocktails, though, and Brown says that several bottlings in the spirit category are distinguishing themselves as more than just a “necessary evil.”
Case in point: The vodka Martini is no longer an abomination in the eyes of in-the-know bartenders; the oft-maligned drink is finally getting the attention it deserves.
Compared to a gin Martini, those ordering a vodka Martini “aren’t always looking for big flavor,” says Piper Kristensen, beverage director at Place des Fêtes in Brooklyn, where the vegetal, savory house Martini is vodka-based. But a good vodka can still show nuance and “personality,” as Kristensen puts it, without “putting up too much of a fight. It’s a tight needle to thread.”
To find the bottles that fit the bill, we asked a handful of bartenders for their top picks. Here are five vodkas worth seeking out for your next Martini, at every price point.
Luksusowa Potato Vodka
For Estelle Bossy, beverage director at New York’s Le Rock, a major concern when making a vodka Martini is texture. “I do not enjoy a thin Martini, and some vodkas just seem to fade as they dilute,” she says. “If I’m aiming for a slightly savory flavor profile, I’ll pour a potato-based vodka with a creamy body.” Luksusowa, a potato vodka from Poland, is full-bodied and doesn’t give off a burn on the nose—“If there’s even a whiff of rubbing alcohol, I’m not putting it in my mixing glass,” Bossy says—and it’s her budget pick for the classic.
- Price: $19 (1 liter)
- ABV: 40%
Supergay Vodka
“There’s a tiny savory note that I think makes it really taste like vodka—if that’s a thing,” says Kristensen of Supergay Vodka. For the New York bartender, the fact that this bottling is distilled only 20 miles away is also a plus. Made from organic corn, Supergay Vodka is “smooth and round,” he says. In our survey of bartender-backed top-shelf bottles, Sean Umstead, co-owner of Kingfisher in Durham, North Carolina, also cited this vodka as a contender because of its mission and approach; Supergay is made in small batches and donates a percentage of profits to local LGBTQI+ organizations.
- Price: $27 (750 milliliters)
- ABV: 40%
Belvedere Smogóry Forest Vodka
According to Brown, Belvedere’s Smogóry Forest is “a far cry from the ‘flavorless, characterless’ stereotype of a vodka.” The premium bottling is made from a type of rye that only grows in Western Poland, offering the vodka a savory, toasted taste and a silky mouthfeel. “It makes a killer Martini,” he says.
- Price: $40 (750 milliliters)
- ABV: 40%
Menaud Vodka
“It is a totally different animal,” says Kristensen of Menaud Vodka. “It’s fruity and juicy, and when you get it super cold, it tastes like melted snow.” Retailer Astor Wines & Spirits also sings its praises: “Rather than saying this is great vodka for non vodka drinkers, it’s probably more accurate to simply say this is what expectations of great vodka should be.” Menaud’s vodka is lightly filtered and features a spicy minerality thanks to its wheat and rye base, plus a uniquely earthy aroma that shines in a Martini.
- Price: $50 (750 milliliters)
- ABV: 40%
Harridan Vodka
Distilled in New York from local corn, Harridan Vodka is Bossy’s higher-end pick. What makes this bottling stand out is its proof—at 44 percent ABV—which, she says, “gives my Martinis a rich, oily mouthfeel.” Lightly sweet and round-bodied, Harridan was designed to shine in a cocktail. The premium vodka also comes in recycled, one-of-a-kind glass blown in Mexico, which doubles as a good-looking bottle for the top shelf.
- Price: $52 (750 milliliters)
- ABV: 44%
