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Obsession

Have Yourself a Nui Nui Christmas

December 13, 2023

Story: Andrew Bohrer

photo: Amber Fouts

Obsession

Have Yourself a Nui Nui Christmas

December 13, 2023

Story: Andrew Bohrer

photo: Amber Fouts

For me, the Donn Beach classic is the perfect holiday cocktail: baking spices, winter citrus, plenty of rum and a healthy dose of nostalgia.

The reasons the Nui Nui, a Donn Beach classic, makes for a Christmas hit are obvious: It’s got cinnamon, spice and everything nice, and all the world wants this time of year is vanilla-flavored everything, not to mention peak citrus season starts in December. The 1930s recipe delivers, then adds a hearty dose of rum into the equation. But for me, it’s emotional because I went and got old. Don’t worry, it won’t happen to you unless you are lucky. Nowadays I get wistful and introspective in the winter, thinking of comfort, old friends and adventures past—the Nui Nui serves up all of that.

When I make a Nui Nui, I think about the bitters that stain my favorite tie, the scar on my right hand from a broken bottle of allspice liqueur and the annual case of mixed exotic syrups I purchase—which inevitably end up used mostly for children’s mocktails. Or how I can never forget that as a toddler, when hitting kids was going out of style, my preschool would feed us a teaspoon of vanilla extract as punishment. This twisted anecdote is also a foundational memory, responsible for my tendency to add a little vanilla atop the drink for aroma rather than rely solely on the syrup for flavor.

When I shake up a Nui Nui with deafening clacking, I like to wonder if I could hear my good pastry chef friend lecturing me on the difference between cassia and Ceylon cinnamon. Because a well-made Nui Nui is not an appetizing color, I’ll reach for a tiki mug, selecting one from almost 15 years of thrift-store finds my wife has acquired. (Her secret: Look in the vase section.) I then strain the drink over freshly crushed ice, smashed with a mallet my dad gave me to carve wood and scoop ice from the Lewis bag my extremely supportive mother sewed for me. When you are a sentimental fool, every cocktail can be a slow-motion montage.

Nui Nui Holiday Tiki Cocktail recipe
Recipes

Nui Nui

A Donn Beach classic that's perfectly suited to the holidays.

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Tagged: holiday, Obsession

Andrew Bohrer is an author, illustrator and bartender. He also co-founded the Washington State Bartender’s Guild. He tended bar at Vessel and Rob Roy and was the opening bar manager at both Naga Cocktail Lounge and Mistral Kitchen―all four bars were once listed in Food and Wine’s top 100 bars in the world. Andrew gives cocktail seminars on topics ranging from chef’s knives to chainsaws; topics in which he is well-versed. These days he can be found at TDO in Seattle, a Tales of the Cocktail–awarded, 12-seat, global spirits tasting room with classic cocktails and no shakers (because old bartenders).