Though historically a straightforward drink, the Gimlet evades categorization. Part of the reason for that, according to Long Island Bar owner Toby Cecchini, is because the drink “doesn’t have a platonic ideal.” For years, the bar world followed the notion that fresh is always best, swapping in fresh citrus and simple syrup for the standard Rose’s Sweetened Lime Juice—but even that is in flux. The stirred Gimlet has made a comeback; soju, celery and “super juice” are all fair game in the gin classic today. That makes it the perfect time to take stock of the many ways Gimlets are showing up on modern menus. To illustrate that, here are nine varied takes on the drink.