Kenta Goto’s ethereal Sakura Martini is unequivocally the most iconic cocktail on the menu at his eponymous bar on New York’s Lower East Side. But while the cherry blossom–inspired drink represents the epitome of elegance, for umami hounds there’s a sleeper hit lying in wait that’s equally deserving of the spotlight: the Koji-San.
The key to the Koji-San’s allure is how two seemingly different spirits—barley-based shochu from Japan and smoke-laced mezcal from Mexico—meet with conviction in the glass, ultimately revealing that even though they don’t share origin stories, their similarities outweigh their differences. Both are earthy, terroir-driven spirits, and when tethered together via the bright, cooling qualities of celery juice (which, incidentally, also ups the savory factor), the result is a refreshing sour bearing multitudes of intrigue.