For all that natural wine trades upon a romantic vision of pastoral simplicity, its main centers of consumption are undeniably urban—London, Tokyo, Paris, New York. Better known for strip malls…
- photo: Drew Katchen
“I was primed to fetishize it, a ‘beer for natural wine geeks’—and fetishize it I did.”
How a number of today’s wine programs are bridging the gap between natural and not.
On its surface, the ode to classic rock and roll has very little to do with wine. But on second look, the parallels—on culture and criticism—run deep.