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Cocktails

It’s Time to Bring Back These Underrated Classics

August 22, 2023

Story: Punch Staff

photo: Lizzie Munro

Cocktails

It’s Time to Bring Back These Underrated Classics

August 22, 2023

Story: Punch Staff

photo: Lizzie Munro

Revamped by today’s best bartenders, these overlooked gems—from New Orleans’ obscure Martini variation to a disco-era tequila drink—are ready for their close-up.

At this point in cocktail history, more than two decades into the revival, just about every Golden Age recipe—and Dark Age recipe, for that matter—has been rediscovered, revived and reintroduced to the drinking public. But despite the endless poring over of Harry Craddock’s Savoy Cocktail Book and Jerry Thomas’ How to Mix Drinks by bartenders seeking drink-making inspiration, a number of recipes have remained unappreciated—seemingly too odd, unlikely or downright weird to warrant a second look. But for the bartenders spotlighted in our “D List” column, which covers history’s forgotten drinks, these formulas possess the trappings of something worth keeping around, unorthodox ingredient list and all. 

For some, the intrigue lies precisely in each drink’s seemingly incongruous makeup. Take, for example, the Metexa, whose very description, “tequila aperitif”—let alone its oddball combination of the agave spirit, Lillet and Swedish punsch—might raise an eyebrow. The Chauncey, meanwhile, is a supercharged equal-parts combo of whiskey, gin, Cognac and sweet vermouth from the 1934 Old Waldorf-Astoria Bar Book. “The whiskey-gin mix, you don’t see that too often,” notes bartender Frank Caiafa. “But then there’s also Cognac—three lead ingredients, in equal parts, softened and modified by vermouth. Anything like that really gets your eye.”

Equally unlikely is the Yellow Parrot—a mix of absinthe, yellow Chartreuse and apricot liqueur—that has stood the test of time to become a fan favorite at Brooklyn’s Maison Premiere. The Cloister cocktail likewise proves that what might sound overly bold on paper can, in fact, come together in the glass. When Christina Rando first served the heady mixture of yellow Chartreuse, gin, two types of citrus and simple syrup from the pages of the Playboy Bartender’s Guide, she recalls, “the guest was so happy that she ordered three more.”

Other recipes feel so well-suited to modern drink-making that it’s a wonder they aren’t on more menus today. An absinthe-laced Martini riff, a little-known Whiskey Sour variation and a proto-Daiquiri all come to mind—each recalls a time-tested classic and subverts our expectations of it. 

But on paper, few drinks rival the absurdity of the Creole-Rum Sazerac, a ’70s-era concoction typically consisting of Pernod, two types of rum, Angostura bitters, lemon juice and a hit of bottled hot sauce. To bring it up to snuff without losing its character, bartender Drew Pompa leans on a split base of Guyanese and Jamaican rums. “The Sazerac is a very serious drink,” he notes of its namesake. But “flipping it, twisting it, and doing a total, all-out fuckup of the original ... resulted in a very delicious cocktail I would be proud to serve to any guest.”

Get to know these cocktails, and more underrated drinks from the history books that deserve a second chance, through the 24 recipes below.

The D List, Revived
Chauncey Cocktail Recipe
Recipe

Chauncey

A historic equal-parts formula that requires little tinkering.

Pancho Villa
Recipe

Pancho Villa

A forgotten Filipino classic.

Douglas Fairbanks Cocktail Recipe
Recipe

Fairbanks Loan No. 2

This loose interpretation of the Douglas Fairbanks is “reminiscent of a Daiquiri on steroids.”

Ruffignac Cocktail Recipe
Recipe

Dauphine’s Roffignac

A highball from the 19th century that swaps the traditional Cognac for tequila.

Obituary martini cocktail
Recipe

Obituary

A drier take on the lesser-known New Orleans Martini.

Recipe

Two Dylans

Tomato and curry leaf give this little-known Whiskey Sour variation an update.

Pauline Daiquiri Recipe
Recipe

The Gibson’s Pauline

A unique unaged rum gives this 1920s rum sour a wintry Daiquiri profile.

Rum Cow Drink Recipe
Recipe

Rum Cow

A tropical dessert drink, upgraded for the modern palate.

Yolanda Martini
Recipe

Yolanda

A vermouth-forward sleeper hit, revived by LyAnna Sanabria.

pablo moix punch
Recipe

Cane & Table’s Royal Hawaiian

Served over crushed ice, this updated take on the tropical classic is built for summer drinking.

Recipe

Rose City

A reverse Martini made with cherry eau de vie and red currant preserves.

Recipe

Thunderbird

Citrusy, creamy and refreshing all at once.

Creole Rum Sazerac
Recipe

Creole-Rum Sazerac

Far from your average Sazerac.

Pousse Cafe Le Loup
Recipe

Pousse Café

A modern Pousse Café made with layers of colorful liqueurs, creamy Calpico and aquavit.

Gem Cocktail Recipe
Recipe

Ned King’s Gem

A pre-tiki cocktail from the 19th century, reinvented for the modern drinker.

Widows Kiss Cognac Cocktail
Recipe

Deke Dunne’s Widow’s Kiss

An autumn-ready stirred drink made with apple brandy, Cognac and two French liqueurs.

hot pants cocktail recipe
Recipe

Hot Pants

A modern take on the 1974 tequila cocktail.

Brainstorm Cocktail
Recipe

Al Sotack’s Brainstorm

A pre-Prohibition Irish whiskey cocktail with dry that drinks like a modified Old-Fashioned.

cloister cocktail recipe
Recipe

Cloister

A gin sour with two types of citrus and yellow Chartreuse.

Recipe

Moonraker

A modern-day Champagne Cocktail inspired by the moon landing.

Metexa Cocktail Recipe
Recipe

Metexa

A modernized take on an obscure tequila aperitif.

Recipe

Brunelle Frappé

A modern spin on a 1930s classic absinthe cocktail.

Recipe

Fountain Inn’s Syllabub

A 500-year-old frothy wine cocktail reimagined for the 21st century.

Yellow Parrot Absinthe Cocktail Recipe
Recipe

Yellow Parrot

An unlikely, equal-parts combination of absinthe, yellow Chartreuse and apricot liqueur.

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